Cosmetics in the Ancient World

Lilac Enfleurage

Animal fats in skincare & perfumery

Tallow has a long and storied place in the world of cosmetics. Indigenous and ancient cultures across the world have used rendered animal fat—from cow, sheep, pig, or wild animals—as a primary source of skin nourishment, for everything from healing wounds, moisturizing dry skin, to crafting costly perfumes. One concern I hear often around tallow based skincare is that it can have an animal like smell- but when properly rendered it should really have very little to no scent at all! Animal fats have an amazing ability to capture and retain delicate scent, this is why tallow has such a rich history in the world of perfumery. Ancient Africans used a unique method of extraction similar to enfleurage (a term and method invented in 18th century France). This laborious process involves pressing fresh flowers or herbs into fat, such as lard or tallow for a few days before replacing with fresh flowers and repeating the process until the desired scent is achieved. This would extract the aroma from the plants and infuse them into the fat. A similar version of the enfleurage method was used to create the most expensive and luxurious perfumes in Ancient Egypt. Similarly, gently infuse our whipped tallow butters with whole fresh herbs and resins that while smelling beautiful, also have their own gentle, unique topical healing properties.

Animal fats were prized in cosmetics up until the industrial revolution, when tallow fell out of favor in the 20th century with the rise of mass-produced, plant-based, and petroleum-derived alternatives. Synthetic moisturizers were often cheaper to manufacture and more widely marketable. However, many of them lack the skin-compatible properties of tallow and sometimes even contribute to sensitivities, dryness, or clogged pores. Many plant based oils require strong chemical solvents or high-heat industrial processing and refinement that strip the oils of many of the nutrients that benefit the skin. Most people are familiar with the toxicity of ingesting seed oils, and similarly I prefer to avoid putting anything on topically that I would not also eat. When rendered traditionally, tallow can be made simply and cleanly, often by small-batch producers like us, using local, lovingly raised animals. Unlike some commercial plant oils, which are linked to monoculture farming and high water use, tallow is typically a byproduct of the meat industry. When sourced from regenerative, grass-fed farms, it becomes an upcycled ingredient—making use of materials that otherwise often go to waste. Tallow skincare has become quite trendy lately… and we reject the notion that something as timeless and beneficial as animal based fats in skincare belong in some crunchy “aesthetic” category. Your ancestors definitely used animal fats on their skin, this is simple stuff, this is for everybody. (Unless your vegan of course.)

What makes tallow so universally valued is its chemical similarity to the oils naturally found in human skin. It contains fatty acids such as oleic and palmitic acid, which help restore and strengthen the skin’s barrier. Additionally, it's rich in fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E, and K—nutrients essential for skin health and repair. A lot of people think of tallow as being this ultra heavy moisturizer, but I find that it absorbs quite easily, and much easier than most plant derived oils, which I find sit on top of my skin much longer unless heat and water is applied in some form, such as oils in a hot bath, or hot water splashed on my face during my nightly skincare routine. I myself am an incredibly dry person, so I use tallow daily on my lips, face, body, and the ends of my hair as needed throughout the day. Last night I covered myself head to toe in the Fauna body butter before a sauna, and the smell of the cedar walls mixed with the bright green smell of the Devil’s Club in that blend was olfactory bliss. Devil’s Club is a native plant to our area, there is plenty of protective folklore surrounding this revered plant of the Pacific Northwest, and the smell of the bark I associate with vague and comforting childhood memories of the forest in Alaska. It’s incredible the emotional imprint that can be stored and associated with scent. When I anoint my body with fragrant animal fat in the steam and the candlelight, I feel a little more feral and refreshed—a bit more raw and earth-bound.

Our tallow based infusions have been gaining a lot of popularity in the shop lately and we are excited to share our unique, naturally scented, whole-plant infused formulas with you. Learn about the medicinal properties of the plants we infuse in our tallow blends:

Devil’s Club - Oplopanax horridus

Olfactory Description: Green, bright, herbaceous. Smells of the forest in the north with fresh peppery notes.

Emollient properties: Devil’s Club contains mucilage and resinous compounds that help soften and moisturize the skin, making it useful for dry, cracked, or irritated skin.

Anti-inflammatory: Traditional use and some early research suggest Devil’s Club reduces inflammation, aiding in conditions like eczema, dermatitis, and psoriasis.

Antimicrobial: Contains compounds with antibacterial and antifungal activity, supporting skin health and preventing infection in minor wounds.

Analgesic effects: Applied topically, it may relieve localized pain and discomfort, traditionally used for sore muscles, joints, and nerve pain.

Wound-healing support: Used by Indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest for promoting healing of cuts, scrapes, and minor burns.

Willow - Salix alba

Natural source of salicylic acid: Willow bark contains salicin, a precursor to salicylic acid, which helps exfoliate the skin, unclog pores, and prevent acne.

Anti-inflammatory: Reduces redness, swelling, and irritation in conditions like acne, rosacea, and dermatitis.

Antimicrobial: Helps fight acne-causing bacteria, supporting clearer, healthier skin.

Exfoliating action: Promotes gentle shedding of dead skin cells, improving texture and reducing buildup that can cause breakouts.

Oil-balancing: Astringent properties help tone the skin and reduce excess oil without over-drying.

Supports acne-prone and congested skin: Especially useful for blackheads, whiteheads, and inflamed pimples due to its pore-cleansing action.

Burdock - Arctium lappa

Anti-inflammatory: Contains compounds like arctiin and lignans that help reduce inflammation in conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis.

Antibacterial & antifungal: Demonstrated antimicrobial activity helps prevent and manage skin infections and breakouts.

Antioxidant-rich: High in polyphenols, which combat oxidative stress and support skin repair and resilience.

Supports wound healing: Traditionally used to help heal minor cuts, scrapes, and ulcers by promoting tissue regeneration.

Soothing & calming: Relieves itching and irritation.

Rock Rose - Labdanum resin, Cistaceae

Olfactory Description: Musky, warm, earthy, and rich scent with notes of amber, musk, and leather.

Wound-healing & antimicrobial: Traditionally used in Mediterranean herbal medicine for healing wounds due to its resinous, antiseptic properties.

Astringent & toning: Naturally tightens skin and minimizes pores, making it beneficial for aging or acne-prone skin.

Rich in antioxidants: Helps combat free radicals and support skin regeneration and elasticity.

Historical use: The resin of the rock rose has been harvested since ancient times (often from goats’ beards!) and is prized in perfumery and in healing balms for its earthy, grounding scent and therapeutic effects.

Hawthorn - Crataegus monogyna

Soothing & anti-inflammatory: Contains flavonoids and tannins that calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

Skin softening: Mildly astringent yet soothing—ideal for sensitive or delicate skin.

Folk tradition: An English nursery rhyme: "The fair maid who, on the first of May, Goes to the fields at break of day, And washes in dew from the hawthorn tree, Will ever after handsome be"

Rose - Rosa damascena

Hydrating & emollient: Naturally rich in mucilage and volatile oils, helping to lock in moisture and soften the skin.

Anti-inflammatory & cooling: Reduces redness and soothes conditions like rosacea, eczema, and sunburn.

Antioxidant-rich: High in vitamin C and polyphenols that support collagen and protect against environmental stress.

Historical beauty staple: Used for centuries in traditional medicine and skincare (think Cleopatra's rose baths) for its luxurious scent and healing properties.

We’re always happy to chat herbs, make custom blends, or help you figure out what your nervous system needs. Stop by the shop or drop us a message—we’re here to help you feel calm, grounded, and nourished through all the seasons.

With heart,

Teresa